Here’s a rundown of some important considerations that go beyond the basics of putting seeds in the ground. They are helpful to keep in mind before and during the planting season.
PLANNING
Make a plan for crop rotation to avoid planting the same plant families in the same location as last year. This will discourage the likelihood of diseases/pests reappearing in that spot. See the Addendum for a list of common vegetable garden plant families.
Do your research. Select varieties of plants/seeds carefully according to expected planting/harvest dates, size, spacing requirements, and very importantly, resistance to diseases and pests. Make sure the seed is certified disease-free. Much of this information is found on seed packets or in seed catalogs (example: https://www.johnnyseeds.com). Some catalogs have a tremendous amount of information useful to gardeners, such as how to start seeds indoors, cover cropping, glossaries, and organic growing suggestions and include videos and webinars. Another great source of research-based information is the University of Minnesota Extension Service (https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden.
PLANTING TIME
Seed/seedling protection: Row covers can provide the most effective defense against insect pests but also diseases. They are most effective when put in place at planting time. The lightest ones are floating row covers which are light enough to rest on top of seedlings without damaging them, whereas heavier ones can also protect against light frosts or act as shade covers. Make sure the type you buy allows rain penetration, unless you have an irrigation system. Row covers must be well-anchored to the soil with U-pins, rocks, boards, or soil to exclude insects effectively. They work well with a support system that can include hoops (made of 9 gauge wire or flexible PVC pipe) or something that won’t sag or rip the row cover. They should not be stretched taut but allowed to flutter a bit in the wind. They don’t necessarily need to be in place the entire season, depending on their purpose, and often are removed when the targeted pest’s season is past or when plants begin to flower.
Row covers can provide protection against Swede midges, flea beetles, cabbage worm moths, Japanese beetles, leaf hoppers, potato beetles, squash bugs, squash vine borers, stink bugs and cucumber beetles.
Cutworm defense is often helpful against young squash and cucumber seedlings, among others. It usually consists of a collar placed around a seedling, 2” above and 1” below the soil line, leaving several inches between the collar and the seedling. Collars can consist of plastic tubs like yogurt containers with bottoms removed and slit up the side for easy placement and removal. Plastic soda bottles and toilet paper rolls are also useful to use.
HELPING INSECT ALLIES
Certain insects can provide benefits in the garden, and deserve to be protected and encouraged. The most important benefit is pollination. Beyond this, some act as predators for harmful insects, and some parasitize them by laying eggs on their larva. Keeping harmful insects at bay is important as they can chew on plant tissue, suck out plant juices, transmit diseases and lay eggs on your plants for more generations of harm. In the worst of circumstances harmful insects invisibly lay eggs or burrow in the soil only to reappear the next year to wreak more havoc in your garden.
Some common insect allies include bumblebees and honey bees, dragonflies, lacewings, ladybugs, spiders, praying mantises, yellow jackets and wasps. Less obvious are centipedes, hover flies, and tachinid flies.
You can invite beneficial insects into your garden by providing habitat for them, such as basil, borage, cosmos, dill, marigolds, bee balm, black eyed Susans, globe thistle, sage, spearmint, sunflowers, thyme, yarrow and zinnias.
GARDEN HYGIENE TO IMPROVE YOUR HARVEST
1-Keep the weeds down to reduce disease and pest habitat.
2-Prevent disease spread by keeping tools clean.
3-Immediately remove garden debris from your garden, especially diseased plants.
4-DO NOT COMPOST diseased plants – throw them in the garbage.
ADDENDUM
Examples of plant families:
Solanaceae: tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplants, ground cherries, tomatillos
Fabaceae: beans, peas, clover, vetch
Cucurbitaceae (Cucurbits): cucumbers, squash (including pumpkins and zucchini), melons and gourds
Brassicaceae (Brassicas): cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, horseradish, kale, collards, mustard, kohlrabi, rutabagas, turnips, radishes, arugula, cress
Amaryllidaceae (Alliums): onions, garlic, shallots, leeks, chives
Asteraceae (Asters): lettuce, salsify, artichokes, radicchio, endive, sunflowers, echinacea, cosmos, marigolds, chamomile
Poaceae (Grasses): corn, rye, oats, wheat, sorghum, rice, millet, lemongrass
Apiaceae-Umbeliferae (Umbels): carrots, parsnips, celery, parsley, dill, fennel, cilantro
Lamiaceae – Labiatae: mint, basil, rosemary, sage, catnip lemon balm, bergamot
Amaranthaceae: chard, beets, spinach, amaranth
Polygonaceae: buckwheat, rhubarb, sorrel
Convolvulaceae: sweet potatoes, morning glories
Rosacea (Rose): strawberries, raspberries, blackberries